Two years ago I wrote this. It concluded ” And after today nothing else could go wrong surely?”. Consider this image as the first challenge to that assertion. It won’t be the last.

Before that, this: those intervening years have burnished perfect memories, downloaded that day, to reflect events in a rather more fantastical epic mythology. It is a ride oft remembered fondly when those riders, pubs and beer intersect. We all have our own versions, none of which stand up to any kind of evidential scrutiny- but are all agreed on the most important thing: It was a brilliant day.
Other than some photographic evidence, most of the experience is captured on this long video.
But let’s back up a bit. After a mostly sleepless night, the six of us stumbled into the darkness barely lit by the pre-dawn. In the time it took for the sun to crawl over the mountain, we’d kicked tyres*, squeezed brake levers and made a plan. “Train leaves at 10, it’s 1200 metres to the bottom of the valley, and we wearing shades”
Better plan: Collect Si’s car from town, shuttle to where we abandoned the van yesterday, rally both down to load up with bikes and riders before a short drive to Olette to catch that 10am train. Timing were tight but we had a plan. It was a good plan. Right up until it we attmpted to execute it.
Machine tooled logistics were going to get us there we told ourselves, Even in the presence of a man who once confidently sent me 900 metres down the WRONG MOUNTAIN. Si** has a unique skill combining endless enthusiasm and a cheerful rejection of reality. He cherishes his ignorance of all things boring and detailed, instead sweeping up those around him with the kind of magical thinking almost always ending in mad adventures often passing into legend.
Don’t get me wrong, we all love him for it. And we keep falling for it. Si believes he is a man for a crisis and that’s true- if there wasn’t a crisis before he arrived, there certainly will be one when he’s left.
Okay, background done, strap in we’re going play by play.
8am- leave the refuge
Even after spending most of the previous day climbing, cold legs reluctantly spun us up a 100m climb to access the “trail that takes you all the way to the bottom, really you can’t go wrong“. That’s a phrase freighted with mild anxiety when such navigational certainty is confidently delivered by a man heading off in an entirely different direction.
Si – still helmetless – wisely chose the fire-road descent so waved us off with a cheerful “see you at the bottom, don’t hang around“. Advice taken on board we set off only for Chris to crash ten seconds later. Maybe Si should have added “Oh and don’t stack it“.
Thankfully Chris was merely shaken and stirred himself into a passable resemblance of a mountain biker again taking the lead. First crossing of the fireroad, a brief navigational conference saw us taking the fork that punted us onto that knife edge ridge. Rather than turn back we carried on. I know, I know!
9am – That’s not a trail, it’s a waterfall with a footpath sign.
Hour later still going. Some riding, couple of crashes, much walking. Finally we cleared the rock strewn debris field and found a confused Si waiting for us. He pointed at another break in the lightening forest and – in an stunning act of delusion – we dived right into it. And it was great, fast, flowy and elevating the blood/adrenaline ration the frankly criminally underpowered 7am coffee had entirely failed to do.
10am
Arrive Vernet-les-baines and it’s still on. In a “if absolutely nothing else goes wrong” kind of way. Zero contingency, not a micrometer of room for fuck ups, no dicking about, let’s get this thing done.
Undone by the quantum particle that is Si James*** and his questionably legal, asset stripped Renault Clio. Slapstick closely followed frustration as bodies were scattered having failed to bump start the bastard. Si flicked switches, pulled fuses and shouted in terrible French. The car – also being French – responded with a firm “Non” and an automotive middle finger.
Steve and I conferred to check our Formula 1 credentials, found none so abandoned Si to chase electronic gremlins long departed from factory spec. Because RaceCar. We did find half-decent coffee grumpily served by a waiter armed with a can of whipped cream and an absolute insistence to spray it. I know how that reads, but it was way funnier than it sounds. Probably hysteria creeping in.

While we were working hard on our caffeinated needs, Matt – being a very practical man – secured a lift back up the mountain in a working vehicle. My phone recorded his safe retrieval of van, so we strolled back to the province of Much Bewilderment only to find Si had kicked the bloody thing into life. Still in with a sniff, but really no more delays. Please.
At which point Matt informed us he was running on fumes. A splash and dash had us racing to a date with the Yellow Train soon to be briefly parked at the station. And there it was- parked exactly where it should be, up to the point we finally arrived, when it left right on schedule.
11am – Racing the train
Deflation was the prevailing weather raining on the un-departed. Moods didn’t improve when – on examining the time table – our next uplift vehicle wasn’t due too two hours so putting the rest of the days riding in jeopardy.
Further examination of the comings and goings of the train reminded us that while it is iconic, it’s not exactly fast. I can’t remember who suggested “We could race the train” but all of us thought it was a brilliant idea. Probably doomed to failure, but having considered other options and finding none, we were all in.

Expensive bikes carelessly thrown into the van fired the starting gun for us to storm out of the car park. We had a train to catch. Although not quite sure where and when. I called in logistics support from home and a few minutes later we had two options, one was closer but a little way off the main mountain road, the second offering easier access, but if we were caught behind a slow vehicle, game over.
Game on. I won’t attempt to document the one van assault on the mountain road other than to say we were flashed by a local who was astounded to find a large commercial vehicle door handling on the white line. Matt’s still very proud of that.
We piled into the station and then out of the van. Bikes dragged across railway lines giving us access to the uphill platform. I’d love to say the train pulled in right then, but we’d beaten it by seven minutes. That’s never going to get old.

Bikes loaded, we headed off for a well deserved sit down and thirty minutes of increasing views opening up the peaks but often shut off by endless tunnels. This train apparently makes very little commercial sense but we loved it. I really hope to be able to ride it again.


Not quite as warm was it looks from all that blue sky. Some of the reason for that is this train terminates at the highest station in Europe. We weren’t going that far though unless yet another navigational cowpat made a proper mess of our plans.

As I’ve said, the train isn’t particularly fast. This is helpful when identifying if the next stop is actually your destination. Groupthink suggests it was, so we confidently jumped onto the platform and hauled the bikes out of the Guards Van.
Things were going well. Time to ride for lunch.
Midday

Sadly not all the way to top of where the fun starts. To avoid the inevitable climbing, we headed for lunch via a fizzy drink pit stop. It was also nearly the final resting place for Matt’s spare GoPro that Steve was filming with. Or not as we discovered a couple of hours later.

Spoiler: we collected it on our way back up the hill in the van a lot later that day. Amazingly it’d had been handed in and kept safe behind the bar.

A quick pedal out of town and into increasingly lumpy landscape deposited us at a perfect spot for lunch. Dubiously we investigated the squashed offerings collected from the Refuge. Let’s just say it was better than breakfast, but then so would snacking on the dry stone wall. Nice view tho.
1pm
Only 500m of climbing separated us from flipping downhill for 1400m of descending. That’s a deal anyone would take, even those sleep deprived, poorly nutritioned riders hoisting three day packs up dusty, hot fireroads, Which made me wonder if hallucination explained what I was looking at, or if that really was a bloody tank? No, not one tank an entire armoured graveyard


Obviously we mugged on the chassis for a while before taking our leave to what Si promised was the final part of the climb. As I’ve alluded too, this is not my first James rodeo and it was a bloody miracle we were still in the right country. But the boy has done good, and it was only going to get better. So much better.
2pm

The first trail was that classic blend of nadge, flow and variations on the concept of discernability. Sometimes the line was obvious, often it wasn’t there at all. Si warned us of a barely marked fork, where the more obvious prong would likely punt you into open space. So we sent him down first. And then followed at a safe distance.

This trail went on for quite a long time, and I was just slightly disappointed that it didn’t offer a bit more variety. Wooded singletrack giving off dusty vibes and throwing up solvable but tricky challenges are absolutely my thing. But being an ungrateful git, I really wanted something more.
More than even those views. Which launched themselves at bouncing eyeballs as we exited the forest and the trail opened up into the valley. Quite often on the edge of the valley as well. Long way down, best not to think about it. Although reviewing the GoPro footage, I was clearing thinking about it quite a lot***
Mostly though I couldn’t tear my eyes off the riders ahead, snaking down the hillside in an ever deepening boulder strewn trench. There were no big jumps or unridable drops, but there was a lot of rock, much of it speeding past at axle height.
Fast plunges through rock gulleys were brought up short by tight and steep switchbacks. Then back off the brakes, back your skills and commit to everything. Momentum really is your friend here, aided and abetted by long travel full suspension bikes built for pretty much this.
As were we, even when inappropriate middle age hollering sometimes drowned out the sound of my howling rear rotor. I’m mumbling nonsense the camera mic occasionally catches but mostly it’s Tourettes tuned by trail. “Come on Al, that’s a shit line“, “Fuck that one is even worse, get your shit sorted” and “Better, more of that dickhead” and even a whispered “Feel the Force Luke” as we dropped deeper into that trench and further into the valley.
I’ve ridden a lot of trails in the last twenty five years. A few of them with adequate briskness. Others rigid stiff with fear. The rest somewhere in between. Today our five rider train was paced right in the middle of my comfort zone and I just didn’t want it to end. Best trail I’ve ever ridden? Maybe, maybe not. But two years on and 30 mins from rewatching it from the GoPro perspective, all I want to do is ride it again.
Maybe every day. Or at least once a week.
Finally it had to end, leaving me with that un-bottleable feeling you only get after putting everything you’ve learned into fifteen minutes of trail, and knowing you couldn’t have given any more. Yeah that. A screen playing that out is a pale cipher of the real experience, but I’ve still watched it twice.
3pm – down and safe
We had a couple of trails to finish where it’s fair to say we’d got our eye in. Skidding onto the very same road we’d raced up a few hours before made me sad. We were done. And dusty. And also bloody thirsty, so when Si led us into the bar overlooking the station, somehow the day got even better.
Matt and Si were short-strawed on vehicle retreival duty. Cati, Steve and I stretched out on the terrace and watched the train go by. It’s mad this 100 year old relic still exists. I’m bloody glad it does, and ardently hope it’s still running when we come back. Because we’re definitely coming back.

The ride back up to Les Angles was less exciting that the train chasing version. The evening which followed was significantly more incident packed. But that’s a story for another day.
8PM

13 hours of chaos, serially dealing with stuff going south, getting it done, moving on before the next disaster rolled in. It could have been quite a lot easier, but I’m not sure it could have been any better. As a day on a bike, it’s right up there, as part of a trip that packed a years worth of laughs into five short days, it’s unforgettable.
Well apart from the bits I have forgotten. But you’ll have got the gist 🙂
*not Matt’s. That wheel had suffered enough percussive engineering already.
**Author of “The idiots guide to being an idiot”
***Is he alive or dead? Unknown but he’s certainly drunk.
**** Don’t look there Al, don’t look, Don’t, Oh for fucks sake you looked didn’t you?














































